Mendoza - the wine region of Argentina

The Mendoza region is the wine capital of Argentina – and approaching the town on Ruta 40 – the main road that runs the length of Argentina’s west – you can see why.  To your right in the distance are the snow-capped Andes and on both sides of the road extend vast areas of vines.

Mendoza is a delightful town with a main square: Independencia - and four surrounding squares each with their own design.  When you arrive you notice that there are deep (1 metre) irrigation “ditches” everywhere – both sides of every street and most roads.  The whole place is very green – with large parks and green areas and tree lined boulevards everywhere.  Then you are told that the town was built in the middle of what is, in fact, a desert.  It rains on average for less than 20 days a year – and not very much!  All the water for the greenery and, of course, the wineries comes from the Andes via the ditches.

The weather is generally good and we were lucky – clear autumnal sunshine, warm during the day but warm enough to dine/drink outside in the many bars and restaurants.

It was a bank holiday the day we arrived so although the town was quiet there was a lot going on in the evenings.  They dine late in Argentina (a la Spain).  We ate outside at 2130 and were the first in the restaurant!  We went on to a small club where La Nashville – a Creedence Clearwater Revival (remember them?) tribute group played from 11:30 until 01:30.  They were excellent and the atmosphere great.  We left the club at 1:30 (late for the oldies!) and walked the 1 mile or so back to our hotel.  The main street was alive with all the restaurants and bars full and buzzing.  Kids seem to stay up with the adults but this seems very normal.  Equally, whilst everyone is drinking and having a good time one never sees anyone drunk or creating trouble.

The next day (Saturday) we rented bikes and toured the city and its parks – a good way to get around and the traffic was light.  The grid pattern of the town (common to most towns here) meant that we didn’t get lost.  The evening saw us in the most popular Parilla (grill) in Mendoza.  We were having trouble with translating the menu – we thought that by this time we could have fathomed a steak menu but obviously not!  In the end they found the one waitress who could speak some English.  She explained that this was primarily a “libre” restaurant i.e. each as much as you like! For 95 pesos (£15) per person.  This included a starter and dessert.  These restaurants don’t operate like the EAMAYL ones at home.  They cook what you want to order – and just keep bringing it.  This includes: Steak, two sorts of sausage, chicken, lamb and sweetbreads.  We saw the first ones come out and quickly decide that we couldn’t manage that so ordered instead a flank steak for change.  Even this we shared and it was more than adequate.  In the meantime couples, families and groups of friends are piling into to the meats – no wonder they have reputation for the biggest meat eaters in the world – more than double the yanks!

The next day we took a tour to the High Andes.  Mendoza is, as the condor flies, only about 100 miles or so from Chile and Ruta 7 is one of the main Andes crossing routes.  We went in a minibus almost to the Argentina border passing some amazing rock structures and markets in the middle of nowhere...

The hot water springs and minerals in the rock created these formations

and then up via a steep and tricky dirt road to 4200 metres (13000ft) –   from there we had spectacular views of Aconcagua – the highest mountain ion the Americas @ 7000 metres.  It was a perfect day so everything was crystal clear. 

First view of Aconcagua

At this height you must be careful – the air is starting to get thin and running around isn’t recommended.  One can feel the lack of oxygen and Karen became light headed and had to sit down. In this spot there is a memorial and flags of both Chile and Argentina.  Here you can have a foot in both countries at once.   We were also privileged to see a few condors circling overhead.  A very memorable tour with an excellent English speaking guide.

We had to explore the wineries here.  The best and very popular way to this is on a bicycle.  We chose to tor the Maipu region – just to the south.  They provide you with a bike, a bottle of water and a map of the wine farms, delis, olive oil farms and artisan chocolate factories.  The total route is about 12 kilometres but we got a bit lost and did more.  Like most of the fellow bikers we met. We only managed three wineries (one including lunch) as the pace is very relaxed,  When  we got back to the bike rental they gave us more free wine before providing a taxi back to the hotel.

Again we decide to take the overnight  bus to Salta – leaving at 1230 and arriving the next morning @ 0730.  This time we decided to sit in the front seats upstairs.   The views – until it got dark – were excellent.  More disconcerting was hitting a low branch causing a loud bang and resulting in a very big crack in the (very large) laminated window 30cms in front of us.  One interesting observation – a large sign by the sign of the road – in the middle of nowhere – with a map of the Malvinas – stating that they belonged to Argentina!